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First step is to crop and straighten, if necessary. Next I set the camera calibration, located at the bottom of the developer panel. I use Canon, so have 5 camera settings plus the Adobe standard setting. I typically use either camera portrait or camera standard. Camera landscape gives colors that I find too vivid and not that accurate, and I never use camera faithful or neutral. I have no idea what profiles Nikon has. Next I adjust the white balance (WB). I usually shoot on auto WB and find it to typically be pretty accurate or close, so I frequently use the as shot setting but will fine tune it. I basically set the WB to what looks accurate to what I saw but will occasionally change it significantly to alter the overall mood or feel of an image. I then adjust any camera aberration, typically vignetting, using the Lens Corrections section. In the new LR 3, there are many lens profiles preset the fix aberration that works very well, with the ability to manually apply further adjustments. The photo to the below exhibits these changes.
Next, I set exposure, fill light, blacks and brightness. I set these for the overall feel, knowing I can fine tune using the gradient and spot tools. For exposure, I use the histogram. If it is piled towards the far right, I lower it and vice versa, if it has a large open space on the right, I increase it towards the right. While I use the histogram as a guide, the overall appearance of the image is my ultimate guide. After I set the exposure I then set the blacks levels, to set the darkest areas, again using the histogram as a guide and the look of the image as the ultimate guide. The I use the fill light to open up the shadows some, if needed. Now that I have set the white and black points, I use the brightness slider to adjust the overall brightness. My next step is applying the gradient and spot tools to apply local adjustments, usually to brightness and exposure. In this case I used the gradient tool to increase the brightness of the foreground. The recovery slider is used to recover the highlights but I rarely use it. I find that it tends to mute the colors and I can recover the highlights better (as long as they aren’t blown out) using the shadows/highlights filter in PS. I don’t use the contrast slider to adjust, I use the Tone Curves section later in the process. The photo below shows these changes applied.
I then adjust the clarity to appearance, usually increasing it to between 20-60. While I don’t totally understand how clarity works, it increases the overall depth of the photo, I think by increasing the contrast in the midtones (someone feel free to correct me if I’m wrong). I then may adjust the vibrancy and almost never adjust the saturation. Vibrancy increases the saturation selectively in the undersaturated areas whereas saturation increases the overall saturation. Lastly, I adjust the contrast using the Tones Curves panel. You can use the sliders or the line on the curves graph, which is what I typically use. You can then fine tune the colors, darken the blues in the skies, etc. using the HSL/Colors/B&W panel but I rarely use this. You can also remove dust spots and clone out small things using LR, but I find the tools better in PS and typically do that there. At this point, I then move to PS. I know photographers that only use LR for all their processing though, and all that I have done to this point can be done using Camera Raw in PS, so you don’t have to have both programs to follow my workflow. Look for my Photoshop workflow to be posted soon. The photo below is the final Lightroom version. Look for Part II coming next week.