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After an early morning spent photographing the quiet village of Khumjung and a filling breakfast it was time to once again hit the trail, which would be 4-6 hours of hiking. While our destination at Deboche was only 100 ft. higher in elevation, finishing at 12,400 ft. the day was going to be hard and strenuous, with a steep descent into the Dudh Kosi Gorge, crossing the river and another lung searing climb back up to the monastery of Tengboche at 12,700 ft. before finally reaching the small village of Deboche for the night. The sky was cloudy but not overcast so there was plenty of sun. As we left Khumjung the descent was gradual, slowly getting steeper as we began to descend into the gorge. At this point the trail was somewhat rocky which, combined with the incline, made it important to begin watching you steps more. Hiking poles were definitely a help, both for stability and to take some of the stress off the knees for the downhill pounding. If any of you reading this have ever hiked in the Grand Canyon, the steeper sections of the EBC trail rival that in the Canyon with the added difficulty the elevation provided.
As we descended to the Dudh Kosi River blooming rhododendron, the national flower of Nepal, began to dot the hillside lending a colorful air to the day’s trek. We passed through several smaller villages nestled on the hillside as we descended, many with locals out and about on their daily activities, giving a small view of life for the Sherpas in this part of the Himalaya. As with previous days, the group split into smaller group, with our guides Bir at the front with our lead group and Karke playing the role of sweeper, making sure everyone made it. The other guides were spaced out with the different groups as they all went at their own pace. The day was the opposite of the previous day’s foggy cold trek, with the sun shining, the temperature tending towards warm, and clouds lending a dramatic edge to the skies.
Once at the suspension bridge crossing the river, it was time to shed the pack for a rest before the steep climb to Tengboche, with its seemingly endless switchbacks. The climb was about 1hours of lactic acid-producing/lung-searing steepness that really started to make me appreciate the altitude we were gaining (and we still had 6000 ft. more to gain before we would top at Kala Patthar at 18,500 ft.). Pink rhododendron dotted the trailside, adding color to the dramatic scenery as we climbed higher into the mountains. Most of the groups took breaks on the climb but, for me, I tend to do better by just keeping a steady constant pace and was the first to top out at Tengboche. The gate leading onto the small plateau that Tengboche nestled on was a welcome site and as I walked through it I was treated to majestic sight of Mount Everest towering above the clouds farther up the valley. It was time to shed the pack, relax, and wait the rest of the groups to arrive.
While waiting for the rest to arrive, I sat gazing farther up valley at the majestic peaks rising through the clouds. There was Ama Dablam, Lohtse, and Everest, of course. The plateau of Tengboche is where I really began to feel I was in the Himalaya of my imagination, as the peaks began to tower above. At Namche Bazaar, they were still distant, more like looking at a photograph but at Tengboche, the immense size of these massifs became more apparent. Resting near the monastery, I was also able to appreciate the colorful, detailed carvings of the entrance, and feel the reverence there. There were also some lodges there and a small bakery/café where we would be eating lunch. The rest of the group began straggling in as my hunger increased, lunch time was approaching. Once we were all accounted for, it was time for lunch and pastries, a welcome respite after a strenuous morning. Lunch was pretty basic, soup and peanut butter and jelly, if my memory serves me right, but the highlight was the pastries and cakes, freshly made at the bakery. I highly recommend grabbing a treat there when on the trek. Many trekkers go from Namche to Tengboche and stop there for the night; we were going about 45 minutes farther to Deboche after lunch. We all were beginning to feel the altitude a bit, some more than others, but everyone was still doing well.
When lunch was finished we were able to visit the monastery and photograph the stunningly detailed carvings. There was no flash allowed, nor were tripods so the shooting was handheld at high ISO but I was still able to get some good examples of the colorful centerpiece. After the brief visit, it was a short downhill hike to our night’s resting place, the Rivendell Lodge, named after the mythical home of Elrond and the elves in Tolkien’s Middle Earth. The rooms were standard tea lodge rooms, small cubicles with painted plywood walls, but the lodge was cozy with a warm dining/commons area to hang out for reading and relaxing. The highlight of the stay was meeting climbers from Everest Base Camp who had come down from the elevation for a bit and were heading back up to ready for their final assault on the massive summit.