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With the luggage and ourselves loaded and our daypacks on our laps or jammed between our legs, the plane took off and started the short 35 minute flight into the Himalayas and Lukla. Our trek would consist of 14 days in the mountains, reaching Everest Base Camp on the 9th day, trekking Kala Patthar the 10th morning, then returning to Lukla for a last night in the mountains and a flight back to Kathmandu the 14th day. As the loaded Sea Otter climbed higher into the mountains, we began to catch glimpses of the peaks through the clouds, providing a teasing sample of what we were soon to be experiencing. The cockpit door was open and I was near the front so was able to see us approaching the runway at Lukla Airport through the windshield. I can assure you that you don’t really appreciate just how short that runway is until you are watching it through the windshield of your plane on approach. Tenzing-Hillary Airport has a short 2000ft. runway the is uphill on the landing so the planes can slow down before the rock wall at the end, and allowing a downhill take-off to get enough speed to lift off before the runway ends in a drop into the valley below. The National Geographic Channel dubbed it the most dangerous airport in the world although there hasn’t been a crash there since 2008.
I still vividly remember Reed sitting next to me stating, “Holy shit, that runway is short! I’m having palpitations” as he held his hand over his heart. The landing was quite uneventful (a good thing) and we got off the plane in the cool morning air to our first view of the village of Lukla and the stone construction of the area. Storefronts catering to the trekking crowd lined the narrow stone paved streets as we walked to the Namaste Lodge for breakfast, meeting the Nepali Guides, and organizing the gear before hitting the trail. The Namaste is where we would be staying on our return before flying back to Kathmandu. Let me clarify something here, I use the term lodges very loosely, at least in relation to a typical western perception. The lodges are stone buildings with a commons/dining room that is usually somewhat dark with a wood burning stove used for heating and boiling water. The rooms are small with 2 single beds with some hooks on the plywood walls and just enough space for 2 adults to stand side by side between the beds. You may or may not have room for your bag and pack at the end of the bed. The bathrooms are communal and a shower costs extra. The one exception to the above description was the Hotel Namche in Namche Bazaar.
Lukla’s streets were crowded with a mix of locals, trekkers getting ready to head up the trail, and trekkers returning from their travels. Mixed in were internet cafes and coffee shops, including a Starbucks. The snowcapped mountains above captured our attention as we had our first taste of the majestic Himalayas. Little did we know just how much more spectacular they would become the higher we would go. From this point on all travel was by foot, beast of burden, or helicopter. The airports would be the last place we would see anything with wheels (other than prayer wheels) for the next 2 weeks. It was quite a start to what became a once-in-a-lifetime trip (to use an over-used but appropriate cliche).