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The streets are filled with a variety of smells, ranging from the delicious aroma of cooking foods to ever present exhaust fumes to the over-bearing stench of trash and sewage. People, traffic, and constant activity dominate the scene, with peaceful moments few and far in between. For lunch, the group met at Fire & Ice, a pizza place in the Thamel district near the hotel. It was slightly crowded, but the noise was reasonable, the pizza excellent, and most importantly, the beer cold. The pizzas were large enough for 2 with an average appetite, or 1 very hungry person. If you’re ever in Kathmandu, definitely give Fire & Ice a try for lunch or a light dinner. For dinner we ate at Yin Yang, a Thai restaurant also in the Thamel District. I have seen mixed reviews online and we had mixed reviews in our group. For a table of 16, I thought the service was very good. I also thought the food (I had a curry) was very good, others felt it was so-so, but most of the group really liked it. I would say Yin Yang is a dependable restaurant with plentiful dishes of very good food but it doesn’t stand out. A restaurant I can definitely not recommend is Lobster. We went as a group our first night back in Kathmandu after the trek and were one of only 3 tables with patrons at that time. There were 16 of us and the menu had some interesting items. The drink service took quite some time, about 30+ minutes to get the drinks. There were 2 of us who order salmon with mussels and 1 ordered lamb, the rest ordered Thai based seafood. When the food came, all got their dishes except those of us who ordered salmon and lamb. 30 minutes later still no food. Finally the lamb came out but no salmon. After 45 minutes of waiting I left and went to Fire and Ice for pizza, refusing to pay for the 3 drinks or the appetizer I had gotten. Lance finally got his salmon almost an hour after everyone else finished eating. If the place was busy and we were a table of 16 I might be able to accept the mix -up, but with only 3 total tables being serviced this was inexcusable and I won’t be going back. Our last night’s dinner was at the Rum Doodle Restaurant & Bar. Service was excellent, the food was good and the drinks were strong. The Rum Doodle is popular with trekkers and climbers. There are white wood yeti feet that were signed and decorated by groups that cover the majority of wall and ceiling space. While there, there was a performance by Nepalese dancer that wasn’t overbearing, allowing for conversation while still being very entertaining.
Some thoughts I had as I walked around Kathmandu. The exotic Kathmandu of my dreams has given way to rampant, uncontrolled growth and doesn’t exist anymore. The reverence and spirituality of Kathmandu is succumbing to the multitudes of people and the waste being produced without an adequate infrastructure to support the masses, but is still present. Walking through Kathmandu, I see the streets with roadside shrines, a multitude of shops, a mix of cultures, a mass of humanity all in movement at once, while the city both crumbles and grows around. I see haphazard construction with bamboo scaffolding and wiring that is either genius or insane, take your pick, that makes me appreciate the standards in place in the US while realizing we are in the minority of the world. That many places don’t have the knowledge, funding, or resources to ensure safe buildings and infrastructure. Underlying it all is a positive, frenetic energy generated by a people as open and friendly as any I have met before. While in Kathmandu I also visited Swayambhunath Temple (The Monkey Temple), the Boudhanath Stupa, and the Pashupatinath Temple all of which I will write about in forthcoming articles. There is still more I want to see here when I return, and I think Kathmandu is worth spending a few days in before and after your trekking, but for me it needs to be in small doses and the utter chaos of the city can be overwhelming.